It was during one of these swells, on Anzac Day, one of the nations proudest and saddest days, that seven-time winner of the Quiksilver Edition Molokai to Oahu Paddleboard race, Jamie Mitchell, joined Gold Coast Lifeguard and tow partner, James Billy Watson, as they anxiously made their way to a remote, and so far undocumented break, hoping for something special. They had been eyeing this wave for a long time but it had always eluded and teased them, only ever giving the boys a glimpse of it’s true potential. But given the look of the weather maps and swell charts, the air hung heavy with the anticipation that Anzac Day would ­ nally be the day they scored what they believed the break could offer if given the necessary tools by mother nature. They needn’t have worried, as they scored what was potentially the standout session during a freakishly good period of east coast surf.

IT MAY BE NAMED AFTER A TASTY TREAT BUT YOU REALLY DON’T WANT TO EAT IT. JAMIE MITCHELL ROARS IN FROM BEHIND THE PEAK AT KRISPY KREMES.

The wave, known to the boys as ‘Krispy Kremes’ [due to the wave’s characteristic foamball which rolls back on itself, making the wave round as a donut], is one of the most dif­icult waves to read in terms of getting it on. It needs a certain swell direction, on cue wind direction and sufficient swell interval to even think about working, but even then it’s no guarantee of waves. It is so de­ ant to scientific reasoning that the boys have travelled to this spot on days with all the necessary ingredients in the mix, and the spot has still failed to produce a breaking wave. Forsaking the perfect waves right on their doorstep the boys decided to take the gamble and head out, and it paid off big time. The early morning wind produced a bump up the face of the wave for the ­ rst couple of hours, but by 8am the day started to heat up, the wind dropped and the boys feasted on picture perfect plate glass perfection for almost seven-and-a-half hours. The session only wound down after Jamie copped a horrendous rag-dolling and was held down for almost three waves. Billy also paid the price for perfection and copped a gnarly beating towards the end of the session when he came unstuck, was hit hard by the nose of his board between the legs and proceeded to piss blood into the already sharky water. That night, Billy ended up waiting in the Emergency Room till almost 10pm to get help for his injured pipe.

Four days later the boys travelled back to Krispy Kremes. With all the charts reading identical to Anzac Day they were hoping to score another day of perfection, but once again, true to the wave’s nature, the waves failed to turn up, and all they found was a burger where there were once donuts.

TESTING THE WATERS. JAMES THREADS HIS WAY THROUGH AN EARLY ONE.