A Secret History Of The Australian Surf
By Finn Lafcadio O'Hanlon | 07 May 2010


On the 25th of April, 1915, Australian soldiers stormed the beaches of Gallipoli. Ninety-five years later, we remember them by storming beaches and the bars of RSL's  across the country. The fighting's moved from the trenches to the front row of a 'two-up' game – gunfire overtaken by the unintelligible ravings and sputters of men itching to place a bet.

We got a head start on the celebrations the night before at Harry Vann’s, in North Av', drinking cheap wine, tagging his new board, and night skating. Last year, the northern beaches were blessed with solid swell. This year, we weren't so lucky. So we headed without sleep to the R at Palm Beach RSL, from where, once wallets were stripped bare and the two-up shut down, our drunken mob relocated to a house a couple of doors down the road. We were lucky it wasn't further away – we mightn't have made it.

Only later it struck me how ironic it was that a day of remembrance was celebrated by an avid rush to obliterate all memories.














(you can check out more of his work at Lafcadio's Dilemmata, http://finnlafcadio.blogspot.com)
 
Comments (5)
Thursday, 03 June 2010 13:05
5 thomas armstrong
finn, nice t meet you, your dad has been a virtual mentor and dear friend to me. I was the first kid in my town to build a skateboard, decades ago. Initially everyone laughed at me, but by the end of the summer we were having huge skate parties, burning tires on the streets for illumination! This in KY. I was also about the only kid in the state to own a surfboard, but I had to travel to Florida to surf, a very, very long way, though maybe not by AU standards, I understand you guys travel immense distances at the drop of a hat and think little of it. Good luck with your new venture, I love it so far.

thomas
Thursday, 20 May 2010 16:34
4 Mike West
very cool piece Finn... sorry we didn't get to see you on our last tour... come visit us in the states one of these years...
Wednesday, 19 May 2010 22:59
3 Jeff Townsend
Good to see ur having fun in life Finn.....Met you a few times long ago, mate of your dads from our youth.....Tell the slack old bastard to drop me a line.Been trying to see him for 18mths now. Even Warren Matthews is on the bandwagon
Monday, 17 May 2010 15:11
2 Warren Matthews
Finn...great blog. I can see some of your father's talent has rubbed off on you. Give the old man a nudge and tell him to be more communcative to his mates.
Friday, 14 May 2010 02:01
1 Mr Kahuna
Memories, like the shadows of your mind. Tagging and obliterating, good clean fun for the youngsters. Excellent Master Finn.

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