your latest session of the surfing Kind

[theonlypillock]

:phavent noticed this thread re hashed so here it goes!!!
just got home after delay upon delay from a week at byron bay!!! those who might remember this thread, my last epic session was 2006 at noosa when the coast was recieving it's once in thirty five year blast and sending all coasties to the wrap around rights that barrelled its tits off for seven days, while my wife was ill pregga's with my first grommit, i surfed up to three sessions a day some finishing by way of some lanterns on the rocks at 10 pm.
well blessed again, yep sweet eFin blessed again, i rock up with twin whirrly gigs pushing swell up to six foot at the wreck. shacked and caned lost a centre fin snapped across the top of the plugs, shacked again and tore the centre plugs clean out, BIG shout out for DR DING got me out 20 hrs later with a new set of epoxy fcs's to takle a more than reasonable sesh at lennox heads. FARK me i had it good!!!!................well except for dodgin kooks a couple times easing an arvo at the pass!!!
almost perfect cause my wife fell in love with my previous life and byron bay give it a month and i might just talk her into movin up!!!
and just got to mention the quicky had at burleigh, as snapper was packed to the rafters this arvo, tight on the rocks fun fun fun fun EFIN fun!
P.S. there's nothin better for a vicco returnin home with a leg rope tan!!!!!!!!!

[Major Tom]

Noice.

Had a solo surf on Thursdy. Shifty, side-on winds, cold as buggery.:confused:





Dey tinks me clazy.:D

[Hally]

Luckeee, haven't had the Pass on for years.

[theonlypillock]

the pass was mostly slow but you could find little barrels inbetween tides, lines where coming in with a little to much easterly. :D(southerly, northerly west and all his brotherlys where out there) so we we're banging heads most of the time, fun?, well the wreck to the surf club was hammering out banks, bight the bullit barrels but only for an hour either side of the changeing tide produced fair walls before a caneing!
monday tuesday two foot
wednesday three humps
thursday to friday
three humps growing to probably four but i say six
wish i got as many sHackings at the beach or northun!
:rolleyes:

[Hally]

http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad272/kevinulla/Surfing/MPcutbackjpg.jpg

See MP segment in "Morning of the Earth".
Still dark and Peterson drags me out of bed, he's already tied my board on to his car and wants to go ...
No breakfast ... he's already had his and checked the points.
He spots some photog. setting up so he stops to check Kirra, I know Snapper has been better lately and argue the point ... he wins, his car plus the photographer, it was pre-groin Kirra.
The waves were much hollower than it looks on film ... thick, clean barrels.
High tide session in morning closer to the road (he is wearing yellow boardies) and a later session off the outside ("cutback of the century" sequence wearing my spare red boardies, he was aware of Falzon shooting the film and insisted leaving me nothing dry to change into - Tommy and MP let me stay at their place that winter for nicks so no complaints there!).
Mick was generous to close friends and, contrary to popular opinion and Doherty's book, would go out of his way to help and share unreservedly.
It began to get crowded, 8 to 10 guys out early easing to a thinning crowd of 3 to 4 at any one time. Set after set unridden, surfing one on one with MP was interesting, I guess, and the swell was dropping ... yeah, it was OK. :D

[rhinoryan]

pretty sure thats one of the best 'session' stories i have ever heard.... now did it really happen or was there a lot of acid floating around back then??? ;)

[Hally]

Hadn't seen Mick since 1977 until invited up for the book launch in 2004 during the Quiksilver Pro where we caught up, stayed at Tommy and Katie's place (Sth Tweed). Brought my old single fin MP for the display, a lot of interest as it is still in good nick, Mick autographed it as we never put any writing under the glass. Black "MP Surfboards" decal and the original receipt from '73. Got to meet Kelly Slater, caught up with Rabbit and PT, all in all glad they invited me.


Yes, it's true.

OH and no, not much ACID back then maybe a "few" mushies ... :D :D

[theonlypillock]

well apart from a lazy sess or two at flinders and gunnamatta and a searching mission only to find a small wave at lorne got back to byron and had a day or two ON again at the pass this time i took the wifes mini mal out and busstled a few waves off the grommits, great long rides.Then even had an all enclosing early sess at tallows at four foot on the shorty:):):), even had a good couple of waves at belongil!!! I SWEAR if i ever move there the locals wont be happy cause the wave will probably never break again.:eek: I'm two from two and going again march next year.

[Hally]

What is it with you and Byron? I get nothing :( and you get it on (even the Pass this time!) ... so once again ... lucky bugger :)

[Dial]

Been pumping lately :) Hope everyone else has been getting into it.
A few shots after a nice session (http://vimeo.com/23411057)

[Ben Whitmore]

Mona Vale rip bowl. there was about three million kilos of seaweed to get tangled in though.

[Dial]

This Autumn on the east coast has been awesome. You keep hearing how the surf isn't as good as it used to be in the 70's. Well if this keeps up it will be just like the 70's.

My local pumping out a few (http://vimeo.com/23952268)

Happy days

[Sunny]

Pumping Autum into Winter up on the SunnyCoast too Dial. Crowds are not like the 70's though. Yesterday was as good as you could want up here, offshore, groundswell and sunny...even mals were getting barreled and bikinis on the beach:p

[Ben Whitmore]

Ah, I haven't been up the Sunny coast in years. I used to spend so much time up there when I was younger. I miss it.

[Dial]

Pumping Autum into Winter up on the SunnyCoast too Dial. Crowds are not like the 70's though. Yesterday was as good as you could want up here, offshore, groundswell and sunny...even mals were getting barreled and bikinis on the beach:p

G'day Sunny. yeah I've seen a few photo's of late up your way, looking pretty sweet. Strange, when I lived up there winter was like Hughie just turned the tap off. I think I went 3-4 months with only 4 or 5 days over 3 foot.

BTW are those bikinis on high-beam lol. I don't remember it being that warm in winter.

[Krashparry]

Hit Gunamatta to try out the new board.... just like everytime I get a new board or wettie it was inconsistant 1ft, crowded and fucken Freezing! I'd never thought I'd say it but the water in Vic at the moment is colder than NZ, need to upgrade the 3'2 I think.

Good to be in the water though!

[Major Tom]

Typhoon number 6 has been sending a few my way. The best "Beach Day" weekend in my 'hood' that I can remember, by far.:D

[MindSurfer]

Had my scariest surfing moment yesterday. Out at redbill beach at bicheno and me and my mate had just driven for like 2.5 hours, checking the spots, most were just too hectic, especially for me trying to get out the back and we got to the last spot and it looked alright. Beach break next to a point so we jumped off the rocks and caught the rip out. Took us out waytoo far and when it's big it breaks a bit further out as well and kinda barrels and I'd heaps gnarlier. Got out there and a massive clean up set cane through, like 12 foot, managed to get under it but my mate who's a few years older than me was like we gotta call it man, we could actually get knocked out by these. So we caught some of the whitewash in but man I was glad to get back on the ground!