Why do you surf? For 19-year-old Kadiatu Kamara it was the death of her father and a momentary escapee from the horrors of the Ebola epidemic which devastated Sierra Leone in 2014 that led her to the line up.
“That’s why I joined the surf club,” explains Kadiatu in the clip. “When I have that kind of stress I have to surf. All the stress goes away.”
This my friends is what surfing is all about.