Victorian surfer Jeff Rowley has taken off under the peak of a fifty-foot monster and lived to tell the story. |
Jeff Rowley falls from the sky on “the” wave. Pic/vid: Minnie Vuong
Maui, Hawaii 31 January 2012: Showing poise, positioning and unwavering bravery, Victorian surfer Jeff Rowley has taken off under the peak of a fifty-foot monster and lived to tell the story. Cementing paddle-in surfing as the new frontier in big wave surfing, Jeff’s wave has rocketed him into contention for Billabong XXL Global Big Wave awards; “Ride of The Year” and “Monster Energy Monster Paddle In”.
Along with Greg Long, Shaun Walsh and Albee Layer, Jeff Rowley had been waiting on Maui for the giant swells to hit the Peahi, “Jaws” reef and produce the worlds biggest surfable waves.
…and coming off the bottom (gulp). Pic/vid: Minnie Vuong
After riding some bombs earlier in the session, Jeff found himself in the perfect position (sic) for the wave of a lifetime. Two surfers to Jeff’s right decided they wanted no part of it – but Jeff, keeping his cool, poked into the bulking swell as it loomed like it was three foot. “As the wave was coming I knew I was in the right position”, said Jeff. “I didn’t want to waste any energy paddling just turn around and go. It just picked me up perfectly, it felt like I was riding a magic carpet with my heart in my mouth”.
Pre-surf wax up mug shot. Pic/vid: Minnie Vuong
Jeff is a man on a mission, literally. “Everything I have worked hard and trained for all my life helped me pull off a ride like this”. Rowley said. Specialising in ‘Breath Enhancement Training’ to maximise time underwater without oxygen and maintain calm in extreme situations is one part of that mission, the other is his commitment to raise money for Breast Cancer Australia.
The most daunting impact zone (for a paddle surfer) in the world. Pic/vid: Minnie Vuong
With his trusty 10’2” (3 metre) Channel Islands surfboard, dubbed the ‘Magic Carpet’, under him, Jeff is looking to overcome his fears and raise money to fight cancer. But his ‘Charge For Charity’ hasn’t been all smooth sailing, on one of the biggest waves of the day, Rowley suffered a horrific wipeout and was pounded so deep he was forced to pull his emergency inflatable airbag wetsuit with mini scuba tank, to return to the surface. “It was like being caught in a giant cement mixer”, explained Jeff. “It pushed me so deep my ears were hurting and I didn’t think I was coming up, I’m lucky I was able to inflate”
The wipeout. Pic/vid: Minnie Vuong
Humbly Jeff added, “overcoming my fears [in the ocean] is nothing compared to fighting a life threatening disease or illness”.
Jeff Rowley, a legend in the making.
Rowley remains on Maui with more giant surf forecast in the coming weeks.
To donate to Rowley’s Charge For Charity, visit www.jeffrowley.com http://www.jeffrowley.com or Everyday Hero http://www.everydayhero.com.au/charge_for_charity for details.
Note: The 2011/12 XXL awards will be announced on Friday May 4 2012 in Anaheim, California.