After a breakfast of buffalo curd, fruit and treacle (a tasty Sri Lankan staple) we head south in a van loaded with little but boards, water and peanuts. We’re eager to escape the Arugam Bay crowds and are well aware there are other right points on the Sri Lankan east coast, each with its own distinctive nuances.
The narrow bitumen strip we drive along, winds through a sparsely vegetated savanna landscape that somehow makes you feel as though you are in Africa instead of South Asia. We’re hoping to encounter elephants, which are commonly sighted in a region that fringes the Yala National Park. Instead we are greeted with hordes of saffron-robed, Hindu pilgrims. The scorched bitumen does nothing to deter the road warriors who wave and cry out as we fly past – a carload of well-fed westerners on a different kind of pilgrimage.
Hypnotized by the trippy setting and the zippering right walls we do lap after lap, ignoring legs which ache from the long rides and return walks, and fighting against a desert heat, which lends lethargy to every movement.