ADVERTISEMENT

Fishes Out of Water

One-dimensional Surf Junkies and the Questions of Travel.

Winter has taken grip. The banks out the front are average and the constant, biting south-westerly does little to up your enthusiasm. You become a regular at the Royal – the pub across the road ­– rather than a regular at your local break. You leave for work in the dark and get home in the dark. When you start to have dreams about work you know it’s time to pack your bags once again and head to Indo.

But it’s been Indo each year for the last three years. Time for something new, your partner declares. They persuade you to go to Norway. The Fjords are beautiful and awe-inspiring, but with each pic you share of the Scandinavian wilderness, the comments are the same. ‘Shoulda’ been in G-land.’ ‘Just missed the swell of the season mate.’

Ah, the bind of the modern day surfer. In the age of jet setting, with waves calling from all corners of the globe, often going inland ­– or someplace where the waves don’t call – just ain’t an option. To have fun, we need surf. But maybe we’re short-changing ourselves. As corny as it sounds, how can we grow as people if we continue to do the same things year in year out?

I recently met a couple of English girls who had been travelling in Mexico where they encountered a group of Australian surfers. After talking surfing with them for some time, they asked one of the guys what else he was into. He gave them a baffled look, and after a moment said, ‘aaaah, whaddya mean???’ The girls took this Aussie catch phrase with them on their travels thereafter. When I met them, surfboard underarm, this was there first thought. I tried to persuade them that there’s more to us than that. We aren’t all one-dimensional surf junkies. Well maybe deep down we are. But surely having a few varied experiences under your belt can’t be a bad thing. When you take a chance and wander from your usual route, it can go both ways. Sometimes it can turn out great, and other times it can suck balls.

Joshua Tree Joshua Tree, California. Photo: Josh Vogel

I’ve seen both sides of this coin. The magic of the Joshua Tree desert in California is really something else. These otherworldly trees stand like temples in an open plain, their spindly limbs reaching for the heavens. They are ‘praying to God’ according to one rare and colourful character I happened upon in a nearby desert town. And there’s the chaotic and cement-clad capital city of Mongolia – Ulaan Baatar – with its streets uneven and its buildings leaning, which will always own a little piece of my heart.

Then again I’ve had some shitty times too. I spent a few wet and gloomy months on an island off Scotland permanently enveloped in a low-lying fog where the main activity was bird watching, unable to flee for my empty bank account.

No matter what, it’s always going to be challenging going inland, whether you’re in the desert or the mountains or some bustling, electric city. In the age of Instagram and Facebook, you’ll always find out about the waves your missing out on, your mates will make sure of that. But what I’ve found is that there’s also value and beauty and lessons to learn in going where the waves don’t call. At the very least, you won’t end up like old mate aaahwhaddyamean???. Then again, who am I to talk? Just booked a ticket to Indo.

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
SUBSCRIBE TO TRACKS
A bi-monthly eclectic tome of tangible surfing goodness that celebrates all things surfing, delivered to your door!
SUBSCRIBE NOW
HAPPENINGS
Your portal to cultural events happening in and around the surfing sphere.
Find Events
SUBSCRIBE TO TRACKS
A bi-monthly eclectic tome of tangible surfing goodness that celebrates all things surfing, delivered to your door!
SUBSCRIBE NOW
HAPPENINGS
Your portal to cultural events happening in and around the surfing sphere.
Find Events

LATEST

Ellie Harrison's dream CT debut just got a whole lot more dreamy.

Pairing Italy's famous delicacies with a healthy dose of barrels.

The formation of Goons of Doom, why you should get pissed at their gigs and what a band with Occy, Steph Gilmore, Yago Dora and Jacko Baker would sound like.

ADVERTISEMENT

PREMIUM FEATURES

Bestowing the highest praise upon a surfer.

An edited extract from ‘The Immortals of Australian Surfing’ by Phil Jarratt.

How a land-locked mainlander chased ocean dreams to the North Shore lineups and beyond.

TRACKS PREMIUM

Get full access to every feature from our print issues, read classic Tracks issues from the 70s, 80s and 90’s, watch all of our classic films & more …

TRACKS PREMIUM

Get full access to every feature from our print issues, read classic Tracks issues from the 70s, 80s and 90’s, watch all of our classic films & more …

CLASSIC ISSUES

A threat to Angourie, the death of vibes, and a tongue in cheek guide on how to become a surf star.

PREMIUM FILM

YEAR: 2008
STARRING: JOEL PARKINSON, MICK FANNING AND DEAN MORRISON

This is the last time the original cooly kids were captured together and features some of their best surfing.

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT

PRINT STORE

Unmistakable and iconic, the Tracks covers from the 70s & 80s are now ready for your walls.

Tracks
Kandui Resort Interstitial