Eye of the storm. Pic: natesmith.com
Today’s Mondayitis is a studied focus on the eye of the storm; inside the barrel. With the distraction of any human form removed, subtle characteristics of the wave reveal themselves for closer examination.
A beautiful complexity of dramatic movement.
As seasoned tube hounds and Hawaiian charger’s (like Pancho Sullivan on the Rip Curl Pro Webcast recently) will tell you; “being inside the barrel is the safest place to be”… but telling yourself this when faced with the a split second decision to either pull in or straighten out – can still be a mental challenge of epic proportions.
Ah, life’s big problem.
Forget taxes and career choices.
Should I or shouldn’t I pull in? That’s a problem.
