You’ve read all about it, about the behemoth Great White sharks that are being mysteriously killed in a little corner of South Africa.
You can read about it and see pictures here and here and you can even watch a video of a dead shark here …
The theory goes that the whitey’s are being chased and killed by pods of Orcas who are all voracious for the sharks massive livers, rich in a compound called squalene, that the Orca’s crave, much like a human craves OxyContin or a cold beer.
But there’s more going on down there in Gansbaai. Here’s a quick summary.
Firstly, Gansbaai is the shark cage diving capital of the world. The cage diving operations chum for sharks, and the area is loaded with Whites – the original shark alley.
There is a whole lot of money being made from cage diving, and tourists from all over the world come and experience the thrill of facing off with Whitey while protected by a cage, like this …
There are regulations in place down there, but it is presumed that over time the sharks have become conditioned to see the diving boats and expect food. The rumours that pieces of carpet, shaped like surfboards and bodyboards, are dragged along with the chumming are unsubstantiated.
Whether the actual wave locations are teeming with sharks or not, it’s the most scary place to surf. If you’re surfing anywhere near the harbour and see the cage diving boats heading out, laden with chum in search of giant Whites, it feels pretty stupid to be in the water.
Still.
The 1) right-hander that breaks around the corner, named after the colour of the rocks, is perfect. It is an easy take-off, it barrels, and it runs down towards a little sandbar between the rocks. Easy paddle-out and an cinch paddle in, which is quite a thing in this rocky stretch of coastline.
The 2) left point that you see breaking on the headland in the distance is not so good. Nice take-off, but a flat wall, and seriously deep water.
The next wave you’ll see is a 3) perfect barreling left. It is named after the barrels it produces. A rock and sand combination, short and hollow, this wave will surprise you when you finally see it because of its perfection. Breaks close in, so you’ll feel quite safe there.
There is another 4) inside left here, but it’s shallow and fast and always seems unmakeable, although I have heard that it gets insane on certain tides and swell directions.
The 5) big left reef that breaks out in the bay is literally a world-class big wave spot. It’s far out to sea however, and quite possibly the scariest wave in the world, just for fear factor. It feels like you’re literally surfing among sharks. A broken board or snapped leash here leaves you with a very long, very distressing swim. Before the harbour was built, the wave was named after a popular 80s watch.
On the inside of this wave, in among the kelp, there is a 6) fun double-up wave, named after a vegetable. This feels pretty safe, because of all the seaweed. It’s not a world-class wave, but it can get quite good.
Around the corner, there is a 7) right that peels off towards the harbour. It’s pretty soft.
Around the corner from there is the best wave in the zone. An 8) thick left reef, that gets good from about four-foot, and heads towards maxing out at anything bigger than six-foot. It’s a full slab, and thus super shallow, and it feels safe from sharks. Although they might be sitting just off the reef, waiting.
It is not a recommended surf trip for the sane, and you might not see sharks while surfing but you’ll see something – whales, seals etc. the place is totally alive.
But here’s the kicker.
If this carries on, and the Great White sharks continue to be devoured by Orca’s, two things could happen.
1. The Great White population could eventually be decimated by Orcas, or they might leave the area. This will see the end of the cage diving operations.
2. The area might become a surfing haven of sorts. It’s a small place, and the waves are not too far apart. It’s kind of like Playgrounds. Same same but different.
If it does do something like that, be warned: the water is freezing, there is a crew of local surfers there, and it stands to reason that they are some of the hardest locals in the world.