Nine-year-old grommet takes us on a Hawaiian adventure most kids (and adults) can only dream about. |
INTRO: Like most surf obsessed grommets Kyuss King lives to ride waves. When told he was going to Hawaii for a holiday Kyuss took it upon himself commit to writing a blog each day he was away. It was a big deal going to Hawaii you see – not just because of his young age – but because he was staying with 1988 world champion Barton Lynch. So from base camp at BL’s house (nestled behind Sunset Beach) join us daily as Kyuss takes us on a fun filled Hawaiian adventure most kids (and adults) can only dream about.
Note for Parents: This is a grommet specific 10 part summer holiday special with totally kid safe content.
Name: Kyuss King // Age: 9 // From: Byron Bay // Thoughts on girls: Rascal’s // Fav wave: The Pass and Duranbah // Fav surfer: Bruce Irons // Starsign: Gemini // Results: Under 9’s Club Champion 2009 / 1st BL’S Blast Off / Oddity: Wide cartoon character like feet.
DAY 9 – Pipe, Pipe, Pipe.
Got up early…. Dad was already checking waves as you could hear it was real big!!!
The waves were seriously pumping, 10 – 15 + feet…
We went and checked the waves, Velzy was washing through from Phantoms…
Checked Sunset to see if comp was going to be held there, They were waiting for a 9.30 call because waves were so big. While we were waiting this guy rode up with old wind surfer board and wearing 80’s gear and a red and white collared shirt. We asked a local who he was and he laughed and said, “he’s a well known local character called Eric Hass who is a legend surfer and known on the North Shore for riding out of control conditions and the biggest days on the North Shore.” He rides really old crappy boards and even brought down a wind surfer to ride as a big wave board… He went out Sunset on the beaten up 10 footer and the Xcel event organizers hooted him on and watched to see how he handled the conditions before they made a call for the comp.
Eric caught a 10 foot set, air dropped and pulled into a hell barrel and rode it through heaps of sections and then floated a 6 foot section at the end… He rode the wave so good… All the event organizers and people on the strip stood up and clapped… I’m so glad I got to see that… He was pretty old and didn’t even look like a surfer… He rocks.
Pipe was 8+ and pumping, heaps of snapped boards. I was right on the sand watching and feeling the waves break so hard.
Rasmus was running around the shore line grabbing all the half boards (our room at Barton’s is full of them already).
Rasmus was standing close to shore when a surge came through, up over onto the flats and rolled him about 4 time with a snapped board in hand… He was so wet and sandy… Dad told him to stay back… He did after that wipeout!
While we sat there and watched heavy Pipe and charging locals and pro’s… I couldn’t believe it can be that big and hollow and you can watch it that close up…
We watch Bruce Irons charging the afternoon session…. My favorite surfer… so stoked!!!!!
Me and Pipe…. Can’t wait…
We checked Wiamea too and saw some huge ones roll in there… Stoked I got to see it break.
After we watched Wiamea for a while we went back to the Xcel comp and watched Pancho Sullivan and Danny Fuller and crew ripping big Sunset… So good to watch that comp with epic sunset big conditions…
I had the best day just watching the waves today…
Bye for now…
– By Kyuss King (with a little help from dad).