Nine-year-old grommet takes us on a Hawaiian adventure most kids (and adults) can only dream about. |
INTRO: Like most surf obsessed grommets Kyuss King lives to ride waves. When told he was going to Hawaii for a holiday Kyuss took it upon himself commit to writing a blog each day he was away. It was a big deal going to Hawaii you see – not just because of his young age – but because he was staying with 1988 world champion Barton Lynch. So from base camp at BL’s house (nestled behind Sunset Beach) join us daily as Kyuss takes us on a fun filled Hawaiian adventure most kids (and adults) can only dream about.
Note for Parents: This is a grommet specific 10 part summer holiday special with totally kid safe content.
Name: Kyuss King // Age: 9 // From: Byron Bay // Thoughts on girls: Rascal’s // Fav wave: The Pass and Duranbah // Fav surfer: Bruce Irons // Starsign: Gemini // Results: Under Club 9’s Champion 2009 / 1st BL’S Blast Off / Oddity: Wide cartoon character like feet.
LAST DAY – Surfing Pipe and Maloha.
On the Hawaiian clock now… woke up at 6.30am…
Checked the waves…. small but super glassy and fun…..
Had breakfast…. Then we loaded up the car and went to Pipe to check the waves…
“Everything is big in Hawaii… This ins’t even that big. There’s bigger trucks than this on the road… A lot of these on the North Shore.”
It was so fun 2 – 4 foot… I surfed Beach Park first for about an hour… Fun sucky rights… Then Dad and I went out Pipe for a couple.
Pipe was soooo good… I got the best waves of my trip… I had 3 lefts that were so good… Heavy shorey too.
Kyuss in reflective mode after the big day.
Shane Beschen was out there with his son who is my age… He rips! We met Shane and his family on the beach and hung out. They were super cool… Shane has two boys and they are the same ages as Ras and I. We are going over to their house to hang out and ride their skate ramp… Cant wait…. They live opposite Rocky point..
Barton, some Junior surfers and a coach did a stretching session on the lawn at 3pm. We all joined in and got so After the stretching we packed up the car and went to Velzy for a late surf…
“The crew stretching and BL saying goodby to Rasmus (holding board dad shaped him).”
Velzy was sooo good…. Not many out because Beach Park, Pipe, Rocky Rights and Lefts were all cranking so our session out Velzy was so good… Super glassy, only 4 guys out, 3 – 4 foot, I rode my 4’11”, I got some sick one and also had the beating of the trip today… I paddled for one, got hung up and got propper pitched from the lip onto the reef… I got held down for ages and hit by my board a few times as well… I was under for so long… A local even said to dad… “Your boy just went down heavy!”
I made it back out and dad said that was a good hold down and my board was tome stoning. Dad said that was heavy and the rest of the session will be easy after that… I got a couple more good one and then I did it again… Another heavy late drop and straight to the reef and cut my foot up… I was a bit rattled. The waves were so good we surfed till dark…. I had the best time out there.
“Walking to Velzy for my last surf. I’m going to miss that place.”
After hitting Velzy reef I had to put lime on the reef cuts to stop it getting infected… It stung so much…
Today was a highlight of my trip because I finally got to surf Pipeline and I got sick waves out there….
I surfed Pipe and Velzy today…. So good!!!!!
All up on my our trip I’ve surfed Sunset, Velzy, Haleiwa, Queens, Kaizer Bowls, Beach Park, Pipeline, Back yards, Freddies and been out on a Jet Ski in Massive Phantoms… It’s been the best trip.
So buzzing after surfing Pipeline……. yew.
I’ve had the best surf trip of my life… I’m so lucky, I’ve had the best introduction to Hawaii through Barton and his mates.
I’m coming back for sure… I love the place, people and it’s waves.
We all did, it’s now a King family calender event.
“Saying goodbye to our friend and surfing legend Barton Lynch… And our private surf check spot.”
I’m also looking forward to getting back to Byron Bay I’ve been really challenged over here in Hawaii so I know that when I get home I’m going to smash those friendly Byron waves.
It’s been so good for my surfing and confidence spending a month in Hawaii…
Barton is a champ.. Thanks BL!
See you…
Bye…
– Kyuss King (with a little help from Dad).