The month’s key stories as spoken by surfing’s major players.
So, just like that, it’s 2018. And if you thought surfing might have its own dry January, think again. The surf world doesn’t stop for anyone. It can be hard to keep up with deaths, and near-deaths in Hawaii, Facebook live streams announcements and just WTF Kelly Slater is riding at Waimea. Lucky for you though Tracks has been keeping minutes, reporting, analyzing and pontificating on the sport we love 24/7.
“Look, maybe that wave wasn’t supposed to be captured, maybe it was just for us.” Hugo Vau on what may have been the biggest wave ever ridden at Nazare, but one that no one filmed.
“The biggest takeaway is the talk about Pay Per View. According to Hickel, there will be different tiers, with the standard viewership remaining free, but for those wanting a bit more, it’ll be time to sign up, to register their credit card with WSL banking.” Craig Jarvis dissects a far reaching interview with the WSL’s Renato Hickel
“Just going to Indo for two weeks and am a bit short,” says the Borrower. “Reckon I could grab the 6’8” you never use in the shed? Oh, and any chance of a boardbag too?” Another Surf Tribes section looks at surfing subspecies.
“The Surfboard is a 6'3" single fin flyer swallowtail, one of the first I believe. It's 21 1/2" wide, well surfed with a few dings & still in good condition with Michael's signature on the stringer.” A letter to the Editor begs the question; Just what is a Michael Peterson shaped surfboard worth?
“Bob will be remembered as a giant in the surfing industry, ahead of his time and in terms of the legendary innovation and selfless experience he shared; he was probably the best thing that ever happened to New Zealand surfing.” Emerson Huuk pays tribute to the legendary shaper Bob Davie.
"Hopefully the equation of a move to Newcastle, a new baby and well-intentioned pink boardies help inspire Julian’s quest for pro surfing’s ultimate prize.” Luke Kennedy on Julian Wilson’s chances of winning a World Title.
“However, none of that explains his latest, big wave board experiment, which he rode at Waimea earlier this week. Based on the photos we are not quite sure what to make of it. All we can tell is that it has a deep, swallowtail, a hatchet-shaped single fin and that it’s pretty short by Waimea standards.” Kelly Slater continues to keep the surfing world guessing.
“The average surfer is usually riding pretty average waves, some boards don’t really allow you to have fun. But a fun twin fin or a board with like a wider tail or less rocker. Just a more forgiving shape can allow a surfer to have a better time, which I think is important.” Twin fin proponent Tyler Warren on why twinnies are making a comeback.
“My theory is twins lost popularity to the thruster not because they didn’t work but because there were so many bad ones made.” Damion Fuller from the Board Collector blog sheds more light on the twin fin revolution.
“He just fell on a nuts drop and hit his head and face on the reef and never came up.” Ryder Guest recalls the incident that almost saw Dusty Payne lose his life at Backdoor.
“Surprisingly the WSL ranked third among sports leagues around the world in social interactions and video views, sitting just behind the NFL and NBA, according to data from social measurement firm Hookit last year.” Alex Workman delves into the WSL’s announcement that all their events will now be livestreamed on Facebook
“Surfers were arriving from all over. From Japan and Brazil, for god’s sake. It was the beginning of the end of the beginning. It was 1975.” Phil Jarratt’s remembers the early surf days of Bali
“My theory is twins lost popularity to the thruster not because they didn’t work but because there were so many bad ones made.” Damion Fuller from Board Collector blog