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Surfing and the Elephant in the Room

Skin cancer is a cold-hearted b-i-a-t-c-h.
Davo_Cancer_100 Skin cancer is a cold-hearted b-i-a-t-c-h. Yet, surfers often forget that the sun can kill.

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Even in the green room Dave Davidson never ignores the elephant. Pic: Hilton

Skin cancer is a cold-hearted b-i-a-t-c-h. Yet, surfers often forget that the sun can kill. Even though it is pouring with rain in Sydney, and it feels like we are in Poland, summer has apparently graced us with her presence – and temperatures in the Southern Hemisphere are sure to heat up soon enough.

Being a Tracks work experience newbie, with a brief to write a story about skin cancer, I took it upon myself to comb through the archives of the Surfers Bible for inspiration. One cover in particular from the nineties featured goofy foot surfer David Davidson deep inside a gapping Indonesian barrel wearing a hat. ‘This guy takes sun protection seriously’, I thought to myself. Not quite as good as Newton and his falling apple, but that’s how this article came about.

After a little research I discovered Dave is a former professional surfer turned Gold Coast surfing instructor. He spends more time in the sun than just about anyone and knows how important it is to combat the serial-killing sun. I figured whom better to get on the phone for a little advice. “The same generations are pretty blasé about going for a surf and not putting on sunscreen,” Davidson told tracksmag.com “But every session makes a difference when you’re trying to look after your skin”.

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Dave circa 2011 (left), and Dave (hat on) gracing the cover of Tracks Magazine’s 1993 October issue.

Skin cancer kills around 60,000 people per year worldwide and sadly everyone has a story or two about a mate or loved one lost to the unforgiving beast that is cancer. For surfers, the Melanoma is our mortal enemy, and one Dave’s seen first hand. “The generation before me, the guys who are now 50 and 60, I’ve seen a lot of these guys getting holes cut out of them with different skin and skin cancer issues” He said with dead seriousness.

While most surf brands do manufacture surf wear and accessories that encourage sun safety, Dave feels there is room for improvement. “No one’s yet to design the perfect surf hat”, he reckons.

My thought is this; the problem lies somewhere between education and self-image. The laid-back lifestyle is what draws people to surfing and wearing a funny looking hat in the surf is sometimes seen as a vibe killer. “It’s the testosterone thing”, adds Dave. “Guys want to get a tan. It’s kind of like a body image thing – but at the same time they’re damaging their skin to try and get a root!”

The stone cold truth is the sun is here to stay and that will always mean skin-cancer. So, whether it’s a five-dollar vest from vinnies or a 200-dollar wettie vest from your local surf shop – remember to cover up this summer.

– By Will ‘The Workie’ Badger

 

 

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