Ridiculously fun rides so close to shore.
Few set-ups in surfing are more fun than a good shorey. It’s not just the minimal paddle-out time, there’s something undeniably enticing about a wave that breaks so achingly close to shore; particularly when it has perfectly hollow, A-frame curves like the little nugget that stars in this footage. The skimboarders (the original modern finless tribe) kill it in this clip, employing ultra- delicate trim and demonstrating just how whippy your turns can be in the absence of keels. Might we see more boards like this in wave pools of the future?