“Owen’s surfing is super calculated,” Says Matt Wilkinson of Owen Wright’s surfing. “But also seems like he’s kinda crazy. Whenever it’s big he’s the guy on the biggest best wave of the day and it’s been like that since we were little kids.”
Currently surfing in his comeback year after a horrific brain injury suffered at Pipe in 2015, Owen is the subject for the latest instalment of Rip Curl’s Really, Really, Really Good Surfers series, and what a worthy subject the long-limbed goofy-footer is.