Owen Wright’s first surf at Pipeline was when he was just 15-years-old. That day was about as big a Pipe gets before it maxes out, with Third-Reef wash throughs frequently mowing through the lineup.

As we are now well aware, Owen loves nothing more than a big hollow left, and he didn’t hesitate to get out there and have a dig. This hard-charging trend continued until in December of 2015, Owen wore a set on the head paddling out.

The impact of the wave caused a serious brain injury, one that Owen has slowly made his way back from over the following years.

These days he’s back in the water at Pipe doing what he loves most, Gath helmet strapped tight around his dome.

In this clip, Owen explains his relationship with the wave that almost ended him.