Including the wave of Billy Kemper’s life.
There’s a lot that goes into a session at Jaws. There’s the flight over, the pre-surf equipment check, stuffing yourself into your flotation suit, inserting your canisters, scaling the cliff, fighting off nerves, rocking off with a 10-foot board into a 10-foot shore break over boulders, and then finally, there’s the act of riding a wave at Jaws. You have to be cut from a very particular kind of cloth to want to do this.
Nathan Florence and Billy Kemper are two gentlemen who fit the bill perfectly, and here they score one of the all-time Jaws sessions. Not the biggest ever, but possibly the cleanest, and one in which Billy Kemper redefines what it means to get tubed.