Oh yeah, it’s official now, the Hawaiian season is here!
There’s nothing better than running down to your local beach at dawn to find firing waves and an almost empty lineup. The mix of anticipation and glee as you desperately try to reach the lineup faster than your human bag of bones can take you. And the sweet relief as you stroke into your first wave and thread a beautiful little tube. It’s moments like that which keep us going.
Here we join Nathan Florence as he captures just such a moment, jumping out of bed for the dawn patrol and finding some perfect Backdoor tubes ripe for plunder.