A dislocated shoulder, a flooded house, and nine hours waiting for the one.
Yeah, Yeah, we know that the Friday the 13th swell at Teahupoo is old news now. But when Matahi Drollet drops a clip detailing the story behind what was essentially the wave of the day, it’s well worth revisiting.
It’s a revealing insight into just what it took to secure his ride of epic proportions. It included a flooded house, dislocating his shoulder only days before the swell, and a nine-hour wait in the channel under a vicious tropical sun.